Princess Cruises - Pointe Des Galets - Reunion Island.
Today is the 14th February – Valentine’s Day and what better
place to be than in France – or at least the Overseas Department of France –
the Island of Reunion. As we approach this small tropical gem, lying
approximately 500 klms east of Madagascar, it appears like a green emerald
emerging from the blue of the Indian Ocean with its lush tropical green
mountains and volcanic peaks.
The size of Reunion is approximately 40klms by 70klms and it
is volcanic in origin. The highest peak is Piton des Neiges at 9,800ft and this
is also the highest elevation in the Indian Ocean. It is surrounded by the 3
cirques (calderas) -Mafate, Salazie and Cilaos. The island still has an active
volcano which last erupted in 1998 and regularly emits steam and rumbles. The
island has a mix of white sandy beaches and black-sand beaches but
unfortunately we are not going to see any tropical beaches today as we are
heading up into the lush, humid mountains to the Cirque de Salazie, to see some
of 100+ waterfalls that spill down from the great heights of the mountainous
peaks. This is an 8 hour tour designed to showcase the best of the island’s
natural beauty and it will include lunch in a Créole Village.
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The coastal road we travel along. |
We leave Porte des Galets, which is about 10klms from the
main city of Saint Denis, and we travel north along the coast. This island is a
lot larger than I expected and it has a very well established network of roads
and bridges. Just by looking at the houses and building etc. you get the
feeling that this island is a lot more prosperous and the standard of living is
a lot higher than most of the ports we have visited on this cruise.
The first part of our journey is along a dual highway that
has a huge mountain on one side and the Indian Ocean on the other. The very
sheer cliffs are covered in steel mesh to stop rock slides and there are
massive road works in progress to make this vital road even wider. There are no
beaches in this part of the island, just piles of small rocks and boulders
along the shore. Eventually we start heading up into the mountains.
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Scenes of the Tamil Temple. |
Our first stop is a Tamil Temple and as it is a Sunday it
has many people worshipping as well as busloads of tourists stopping for a
look. The true culture of Reunion is a mix of Créole, European, Indian, Tamils
and Chinese and all their different religions are reflected in their different
places of worship.
As we move further into the mountainous area we see how high
the highest volcanic peaks actually are and they seem to be lost in the very
dark clouds that are forming around their tops. The scenery is very dense and
green with fields of sugar cane, bamboo, banana palms, watercress and choko
plants and arbours of cabbage palms. There is water flowing through the small
creeks and rivers we cross because the rainfall on this island is very regular
and is very high (24 mts per year). We visit one of the biggest vanilla
plantations on Reunion and we see the plants, learn about how the plants are
fertilized and how they are harvested and dried. It is a very labour intense
industry and that is why vanilla is so expensive.
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Vanilla growing on a host plant. |
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This box of dried vanilla is worth 2000ers. |
The further up the mountains we go the steeper and narrower
the road gets. It is really quite a hairy drive because the driver cannot see
what is coming around most of the corners, is often on the wrong side and in
some spots the turn is so tight that he has to stop and back the bus back
before completing the turn around the sharp bend. We stop several times to take
in the magnificent views which includes many sensational waterfalls - the
highest and prettiest of these is the Brides Veil Falls – named because of the
way the water cascades down in glistening veils. We then enjoy a panoramic
photo stop at Watermen Pond which is just so beautiful - as the sun is out and
you can see right down into the deep gorge and then right up to the tops of the
mountain ranges.
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One of the many water falls. |
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Brides Veil Falls. |
Next we visit the small village of Hell-Borg - a pretty
Créole Village situated in the cirque de Salazie basin where we have a lovely
walk around the village and then have traditional lunch at a local restaurant.
After lunch we have free time to look at the few shops in the village and to
practise our French by chatting to the locals, but unfortunately the clouds
roll in and the rain starts and does not stop again until we are back at sea
level.
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The main street of Hell-Borg. |
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A Créole House in the village. |
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A typical French Cemetery in the mountains on Reunion Island. |
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The local shop owners. |
The drive back down the hill is very wet and the roads are
slippery. In some spots waterfalls are actually hitting the road and we have to
drive through them. The clouds are now so low and dense – so seeing the views
is very limited. We were so lucky that we had such wonderful weather in the morning.
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The falls through the mist. |
On our way back to the ship we have a drive around the city
of Saint Denis with many wonderful old French Colonial buildings and houses. Reunion, might be a long distance from France
in Europe but the language, culture, road signs and cuisine are truly French
and it has been a really wonderful and surprising place to visit.
When we get back to the ship we are greeted with lots of red
and white heart decorations everywhere to celebrate Valentine’s Day and there
are beautiful heart shaped cakes and deserts for us to eat. This really makes
for a very enjoyable and memorable day. That night we enjoyed our dinner out on
the open deck – lovely warm night, nice sunset and then plenty of stars.